May 21 2020 Words: Jenny Jauczius - Paintings: Adam Jauczius
Lemons
Lemons, limes, oranges and mandarins can be found in many Island gardens and wild, ‘bush’ lemons abound in the National Park. Citrus trees were introduced, and cultivated, during the first European settlement and, seeded by birds, spread all over the Island. They thrived and grew thickly; by 1870 an encyclopaedia entry on Norfolk said “...the underwood is largely composed of lemon trees...”
The Pitcairners took advantage of this natural resource and set up small processing plants – picking and juicing the fruit for export. In 1921 The Sydney Mail noted: During the lemon season, and that is most of the year, Norfolk is a busy place...outside the factories are great golden heaps of lemons waiting to be sorted. Inside there is...much chattering and laughter from eager, busy workers cutting and squeezing the fruit,... deep troughs are running high with the golden juice... thousands upon thousands are cut and squeezed, and stacks of peel brined in a day...millions of lemons are used up [but]...millions of lemons [are] still going to waste.
The cost of freighting their products to overseas markets, however, worked against the local industry’s expansion. Then, in the early 1940s, Norfolk’s citrus crops began to be affected by a strange ‘sooty’ disease, possibly spread by introduced black ants, which decimated tree numbers. Today the endless lemon groves “…bearing fruit in wonderful abundance…” are gone, but a few tenacious old trees survive.
Those wanting to use these juicy, pip-filled fruits go up the mountain, or to other ‘secret spots’, and gather them. Tahitian fish or sweet, tangy pies are not the same unless fragrant, wild lemons are used. Their tart, zesty flavour can’t be beaten and they’re highly prized by Island cooks.
Lemon Butter
180 ml lemon juice (6 - 8 lemons) • 6 egg yolks • 300g sugar • 150g butter
Put juice, egg yolks, sugar and butter in a saucepan.
Stir over medium heat until the mixture thickens and starts to set. Pour into sterilised jars.